![]() Next we set the minimum and maximum values the monitor can produce to absolute black and absolute white, respectively. But honestly, if your situation is that dire, your time is better spent writing angry letters to your monitor’s manufacturer. If you have no idea what the presets are or what the color control does and you have no outside windows, you could try the same with a white LED light, but beware that “white” LEDs are not standardized. If you don’t have that kind of control, you can eyeball the color temperature setting by switching off all artificial lights in the room and comparing the display’s white to sunlight hitting a white piece of paper. Fire up your calculator and find the correct position. In most cases you can adjust a slider to any value in between the presets. If you don’t, check your monitor’s manual and see what your options are. If you’re lucky enough to have a 6,500K preset, that is the one you want. ![]() Most monitors have at least two pre-sets, 5,000K and 9,300K, which translate respectively to mustard yellow and an irritating blue. Hopefully you have a hardware “color” control on your monitor. The general standard for normal daylight is 6,500K (Kelvins). In order to have a good, objective definition of color, physicists quantify it by something called color temperature - the temperature to which you would have to heat a black-body radiator for it to glow in a particular shade. Step One: Learning colors with Lord Kelvin If your hardware doesn’t have these controls or they are malfunctioning, calibration won’t make up the difference. Almost every monitor has built-in hardware brightness and contrast controls, and most have color temperature control as well. Finding the optimal hardware is a different issue, and some montiors are just better than others. Calibration is getting optimal performance from a piece of hardware. One last word: calibration will not make a bad monitor look like a good one. I don’t generally recommend replacing your lights with special daylight-balanced bulbs, but doing so would help if you must color-match images on your display with other items, such as printouts. If you have control over your computing environment, reducing screen glare and using white light bulbs will give you an improvement. Remember the neon-light showroom? However well you calibrate that monitor, it would look better if you improved the viewing conditions red and blue ambient light bouncing off the glass interfere with your vision. It is further complicated by the fact that CRTs and LCDs don’t generate a linear increase in brightness from a linear increase in voltage, so some math is required to make them paint their signals to the screen correctly.īut calibration really begins before you even touch the monitor. This task is complicated slightly by the fact that not everybody agrees on what color white is. Basically, a calibrated display should map an absolute black pixel to the blackest color that it can produce, an absolute white pixel to the whitest color that it can produce, and smoothly scale the shades in between. That said, calibration isn’t completely individualistic either. That means, for one thing, that if your monitor resides in a brightly lit neon lamp showroom, calibrating it will result in different settings than the same model used in an unlit basement. The job of the computer monitor is to map those pixels to glowing dots that look right to you. An image - whether it’s a JPEG file or a live video feed - is a big matrix of pixel values. To begin with, understand that all display calibration has one goal: appearing correct to your eye. Just as Linux allows you the flexibility to hand-tune your kernel configuration and optimize your disk drive performance to the manufacturer’s limits, you can calibrate your monitor with enough precision to satisfy the pros. A lot of Linux users seem resigned to the notion that the X Window System is a second-class citizen in the calibration world.
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